Dead blow Teflon mallet for jewellery forming, 44mm head, wooden handle

Dead Blow Teflon Jewellery Hammer, 44 x 98 mm Head, Wooden Handle, Forming and Shaping Mallet

£17.99
Sale price  £17.99 Regular price 
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Dead blow Teflon mallet for jewellery forming, 44mm head, wooden handle

Dead Blow Teflon Jewellery Hammer, 44 x 98 mm Head, Wooden Handle, Forming and Shaping Mallet

£17.99
Sale price  £17.99 Regular price 
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For jewellers and silversmiths shaping sheet metal, this dead blow mallet delivers controlled force without marring polished surfaces. Its non-rebound head transfers the full energy of your strike, providing cleaner, more efficient metal movement compared to a standard forming hammer. All stock is held in the UK.

Key features

  • Solid Teflon head prevents any marking or damage to polished metal surfaces.
  • Dead blow construction eliminates rebound for maximum energy transfer per strike.
  • Large 44 x 98 mm cylindrical head provides a broad contact area for forming.
  • Turned hardwood handle offers a comfortable, natural grip for prolonged bench work.

Who it's for

An essential mallet for UK bench jewellers, silversmiths, and metalsmiths working with non-ferrous metals like silver, gold, and copper. Also suitable for restorers and fabricators who need to shape delicate sheet metal without leaving a trace.

Specifications

  • Head Material: Teflon
  • Handle Material: Wood
  • Head Dimensions: 44 mm × 98 mm

Free UK delivery · Same-day dispatch before 2pm · 30-day returns

Only 8 left at the bench Same-day Birmingham dispatch on weekday orders before 2pm.

Common questions at the bench

What weight hammer should I start with?
For most bench work, 4–8 oz is the sweet spot. Lighter hammers (2–4 oz) suit fine detail and chasing punches; 6–8 oz suits forging and texture work. Avoid anything over 12 oz unless you specifically need a raising hammer.
Can I use this on annealed silver and copper?
Yes — these hammers are designed for non-ferrous metals: silver (sterling, fine, britannia), copper, brass, bronze, and aluminium. The polished face will not transfer marks to clean annealed stock when used correctly. For mild steel work, use a separate hammer.
How should I care for it?
Wipe the face down after each session to prevent any tarnish from work residue marking your next piece. If the head develops nicks, polish them out with fine-grit emery and a buffing mop — a marked hammer face transfers marks to your work.
What is in the box?
One hammer with the head and handle fitted, ready for the bench. Polished faces are protected with a thin oil film — wipe before first use.

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