Steel Bench Block on Hardwood Base, 76mm x 76mm (3 x 3 inch)

Riveting & Flattening Bench Block — Steel on Hardwood Base, 76 mm × 76 mm (3 × 3 inch)

£19.99
Sale price  £19.99 Regular price 
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Steel Bench Block on Hardwood Base, 76mm x 76mm (3 x 3 inch)

Riveting & Flattening Bench Block — Steel on Hardwood Base, 76 mm × 76 mm (3 × 3 inch)

£19.99
Sale price  £19.99 Regular price 
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A small anvil for the everyday hammer work — flattening wire, setting rivets and light forming of non-ferrous metal. The 76mm square working face is case-hardened steel, ground flat and polished, so blows land true and the surface gives nothing back to your workpiece.

Under the steel sits a 19mm hardwood base that absorbs shock and quietens the work, sparing both your bench and your wrist over a long session. Turn the whole block over and the hardwood becomes a softer striking surface for jobs the steel face would mark.

  • Overall dimensions: 76mm x 76mm (3 x 3 inches).
  • Case-hardened steel block, 6.35mm (1/4 inch) thick, ground flat and smooth.
  • Mounted on a 19mm (3/4 inch) hardwood base to absorb shock and reduce vibration.
  • Reversible design allows use of the hardwood base as a softer work surface.
  • Provides a solid, stable surface for riveting, forming, and flattening metal.
Weight 500 g

What jewellers say about us

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“Reasonable quality and half the price of the others available. Pleasantly surprised.”
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“Fabulous product and customer service. Would surely buy again.”
Kay · Verified buyer
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“Excellent value, good quality item. Exactly what was described.”
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Common questions at the bench

What weight hammer should I start with?
For most bench work, 4–8 oz is the sweet spot. Lighter hammers (2–4 oz) suit fine detail and chasing punches; 6–8 oz suits forging and texture work. Avoid anything over 12 oz unless you specifically need a raising hammer.
Can I use this on annealed silver and copper?
Yes — these hammers are designed for non-ferrous metals: silver (sterling, fine, britannia), copper, brass, bronze, and aluminium. The polished face will not transfer marks to clean annealed stock when used correctly. For mild steel work, use a separate hammer.
How should I care for it?
Wipe the face down after each session to prevent any tarnish from work residue marking your next piece. If the head develops nicks, polish them out with fine-grit emery and a buffing mop — a marked hammer face transfers marks to your work.
What is in the box?
One hammer with the head and handle fitted, ready for the bench. Polished faces are protected with a thin oil film — wipe before first use.

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