In short: Thread a crimp tube, loop the beading wire through the clasp and back through the tube, leave a small gap, then squeeze in the crimping pliers' back notch to split the two wires and the front notch to fold the crimp closed. Match the crimp size to the plier channel, tug-test every crimp, and trim the tail flush.
Every strung necklace ends at a crimp, and the crimp is where most strung jewellery fails. A crimp flattened with ordinary chain-nose pliers looks finished, holds for a week and then lets the clasp slide off with the beads following. Proper crimping pliers fold the tube around the wire instead of crushing it. Here is how the two-step crimp works, how to choose crimp and plier sizes, and the checks that stop a strand coming back for repair.
Why a flattened crimp lets go
Beading wire is a bundle of fine steel strands inside a nylon coating. Squash a crimp tube flat and it grips the wire along two hard edges, which can bite into the coating while still leaving the two wires side by side inside a loose, flat tube. Over time the wire works its way along. A folded crimp is different: the first squeeze separates the two wires into their own channels, and the second rolls the tube into a compact, rounded shape that holds both wires along their length.
Choosing crimps and crimping pliers
Crimping pliers have shaped channels sized to particular crimp tubes, and the crimp must suit both the channel and the wire. Too small a crimp for the wire will not close; too large and the fold has nothing to grip.
- Dual crimping pliers with 1.5 mm and 2.0 mm channels cover the two crimp sizes found on most strung necklaces and bracelets, so fine and standard work finish with one tool.
- Standard crimping pliers for 2–3 mm crimp beads and tubes suit heavier beading wire and chunkier strands, using a two-stage jaw that folds the crimp and then rounds it closed.
- Universal one-station crimping pliers use a single recess that folds and rounds a range of common crimp sizes, which is handy for repairs and mixed work.
Tube crimps are more forgiving than round crimp beads for a two-step fold, because their straight sides give the jaws something to work against. If you are starting out, buy tubes in the size your pliers are machined for and keep the packet with the tool.
The two-step crimp, step by step
1. Thread and loop
Slide a crimp tube onto the beading wire, then pass the wire through the clasp or jump ring and back down through the same tube, so you have two wires running side by side inside it. Thread a few beads over the tail as well if the design allows; it hides the end and adds grip.
2. Leave a small gap
Draw the loop up until it is small and neat, but leave a little space between the crimp and the clasp. A loop pulled tight against the finding has no movement, so the wire flexes at the crimp every time the necklace moves and wears through there first.
3. First squeeze: the back notch
Place the crimp in the notch nearer the handles — the one with a ridge in it. Make sure the two wires lie side by side, one on each side of where the ridge will land, and do not cross over each other. Squeeze firmly. The ridge presses a groove down the middle of the tube, splitting it into two channels with one wire in each.
4. Second squeeze: the front notch
Turn the crimp ninety degrees so the groove faces outwards, and set it upright in the front, rounded notch. Squeeze gently and the two halves fold over onto each other, rolling the tube into a compact shape. Rotate and squeeze lightly once or twice more to round it off. Pressing too hard here can split the tube and leave sharp edges.
5. Tug-test and trim
Hold the clasp in one hand and the strand in the other and give it a firm pull. A good crimp does not move. If it slides, cut it off and crimp again with a fresh tube, because a crimp cannot be re-squeezed into a reliable hold. Then trim the tail as close as you can with flush cutters such as these 120 mm economy flush cutters, flat side towards the crimp, or tuck it back through the first few beads before cutting.
Finishing touches that make strung work look professional
Crimp covers
A crimp cover is a small, open, hollow bead that closes over a finished crimp with the front notch of the pliers, turning a functional fold into something that looks like a round metal bead. They are worth the extra minute on anything you sell.
Wire guards
A wire guard is a small curved tube that the beading wire runs through at the clasp. It protects the wire where it bends around the finding, which is the point of greatest wear on a bracelet or a heavy necklace.
Leave a little ease in the strand
Before crimping the second end, lay the strand in a curve, not a straight line. A strand crimped dead tight is stiff and kinks; a strand with a little ease drapes properly and puts less load on the crimps.
Common crimping mistakes
- Crossed wires inside the tube: the first squeeze cannot separate them, so the fold grips poorly. Straighten them before step 3.
- Wrong channel for the crimp: a small crimp in a large channel is barely squeezed; a large crimp in a small channel splits. Match sizes.
- Skipping the tug-test: it takes two seconds and is the only real check you have.
- Using pliers for everything: keep crimping pliers for crimps. Using them to grip or bend wire burrs the channels.
Our beading & stringing collection gathers the knotting tools, needles and bead aids that sit alongside crimping pliers on a stringing bench.
Frequently asked
Can I close crimp beads with ordinary flat-nose pliers?
You can flatten them, but a flattened crimp grips the beading wire along two hard edges and is more likely to slip over time. Crimping pliers fold the tube so each wire sits in its own channel, which holds more securely and looks neater.
Which notch on crimping pliers do I use first?
Use the notch nearer the handles first, the one with a ridge, to press a groove down the crimp and separate the two wires. Then turn the crimp ninety degrees and use the rounded front notch to fold it closed.
What size crimp should I use with my crimping pliers?
Use the crimp size the pliers' channels are machined for, and check it suits your beading wire. Dual crimping pliers with 1.5 mm and 2.0 mm channels cover most strung necklaces and bracelets, while pliers for 2 to 3 mm crimps suit heavier beading wire.
Why should I leave a gap between the crimp and the clasp?
A loop pulled tight against the clasp cannot move, so the beading wire flexes at the crimp every time the piece is worn and wears through there first. Leaving a small gap lets the loop move freely around the finding.
Related guides
- Cutting hardened jewellery wire without damaging your jaws
- Selling Your Jewellery at UK Craft Fairs: A Maker's First Stall
A crimp is a small thing to get right and an expensive thing to get wrong. Practise a dozen on an offcut of beading wire before you finish a strand of good beads, and the movement soon becomes automatic. Free UK delivery from £30, and unused tools can be returned within 30 days.