In short: Make ear wires from 0.8 mm (about 20-gauge) half-hard round wire, which holds a curve without being uncomfortable in a piercing. Cut two equal lengths of around 50 mm together, turn a small loop at one end, form the long curve over a mandrel, and file the free end smooth and round.
Findings are the small components that turn a made object into wearable jewellery — ear wires, hooks, jump rings, clasps. You can buy them, but making your own means a perfect metal match, the exact shape you want, and no waiting on stock. Ear wires are the ideal first finding: quick, useful, and a great lesson in working wire.
The right wire
Use 0.8 mm (about 20-gauge) half-hard round wire for most ear wires. Too thin and they bend out of shape; too thick and they're uncomfortable through a piercing. Half-hard temper gives enough spring to hold a curve. If you only have soft wire, you'll work-harden it into shape (more on that below). Our wire gauge guide explains the thicknesses and what each is for.
The tools
You need surprisingly little: round-nose pliers to form loops and the hook curve, flush side cutters for clean ends, and something round to shape the hook over. A mini mandrel set gives you a repeatable former so every pair matches. All in Pliers & Cutters and Mandrels & Sizing.
A simple French hook, step by step
- Cut two equal lengths of wire (around 50 mm). Cutting them together guarantees a matched pair.
- Turn a small loop at one end of each with round-nose pliers — this is where the earring drop will hang.
- Form the long curve over a mandrel or a round pen barrel so both hooks match exactly.
- File the free end smooth and round so it slides comfortably through the ear, and add a tiny upward flick.
The secret: work-hardening
Freshly formed wire is too soft and will straighten out. Give the finished hooks a gentle tap with a planishing or rawhide hammer, or simply work them firmly around the mandrel, to harden the metal so they keep their spring. If they've become brittle or you're starting from hard wire that won't form, anneal first — see how to anneal and forge silver. One rule for anything that goes through a piercing: use sterling, fine silver, gold or proper surgical wire — never an unknown plated base metal, as nickel is a common allergen and an ear wire sits against the skin all day. The same wire skills lead straight into making your own jump rings.
Tools for findings live in Pliers & Cutters and Mandrels & Sizing.
Frequently asked
Why do my handmade ear wires lose their shape?
Because freshly formed wire is too soft. Work-harden the finished hooks with a gentle tap from a planishing or rawhide hammer, or work them firmly around the mandrel, so they keep their spring. If the wire has become brittle, or is too hard to form, anneal it first.
Which metals are safe to use for ear wires?
Sterling, fine silver, gold or proper surgical wire. Anything that goes through a piercing should never be an unknown plated base metal, because nickel is a common allergen and an ear wire sits against the skin all day.
What tools do I need to make my own ear wires?
Surprisingly little: round-nose pliers to form the loops and hook curve, flush side cutters for clean ends, and something round to shape the hook over. A mini mandrel set gives a repeatable former so every pair matches.
Is it worth making your own earring findings instead of buying them?
Yes. Making your own gives a perfect metal match and the exact shape you want. Ear wires are the ideal first finding: quick, useful and a good lesson in working wire, and the same skills lead straight into making your own jump rings.