In short: A solid bangle has to pass over the hand, so size it from the widest part of the hand with the thumb tucked in, not from the wrist. Divide that circumference by π for the inside diameter, cut a blank of (inside diameter + metal thickness) × π, then solder, round it on a bangle mandrel with a soft mallet and check it against a bangle sizer.
A ring that is a size out can usually be stretched. A closed bangle that will not go over the hand is a remake. Bangles are one of the most satisfying pieces to make at the bench, but the sizing works differently from rings and from open cuffs, and that is where most first attempts go wrong. Here is how to measure for a solid bangle, how long to cut the blank, and how to form and true it on a mandrel.
Measure the hand, not the wrist
A closed bangle never touches most of the wrist; it has to slide over the knuckles. So the measurement that matters is the hand at its widest, with the hand shaped as it would be when putting a bangle on.
- Bring the thumb in towards the little finger, as if squeezing into a bangle.
- Wrap a strip of paper or a soft tape around the widest part of the hand, across the knuckles.
- Mark where the strip overlaps, lay it flat and measure it in millimetres. That is the hand circumference.
- Divide by π (3.1416) to get the inside diameter the bangle needs.
If the result falls between two sizes, go up rather than down: a bangle slightly large slides on comfortably, while one slightly small simply does not go on. Open cuffs are different and are sized nearer the wrist, because they are slipped on sideways.
Or measure a bangle that already fits
The most reliable reference is a bangle the wearer already likes. Measure the inside diameter straight across the centre, edge to edge, not including the metal. A slightly off-centre reading gives a smaller number than the real diameter, so take two or three readings at different angles and use the largest.
A sizer set takes the guesswork out
For commissions and stall work, a 27-piece bangle and bracelet sizer set lets a customer slide graduated sizers over the hand until one sits right, with US and international sizes marked on each. For checking a bangle you have made, a flat stainless steel bangle sizer gauge reads internal diameters from 44.5 to 66.6 mm.
How long to cut the blank
A blank cut to the inside circumference makes a bangle that is too small, because the metal's thickness takes up room as it bends. The standard bench formula, used for rings as well, is:
Blank length = (inside diameter + metal thickness) × π
Add the thickness to the diameter first, then multiply. Adding it afterwards gives a short blank. As a worked example, a hand circumference of 200 mm gives an inside diameter of about 63.7 mm. In 2 mm thick wire or strip, the blank is (63.7 + 2) × 3.1416, which is about 206.4 mm. Allow a little extra for filing the ends square and for the solder seam, and if this is your first bangle in a new profile, make a copper test piece before cutting silver.
Forming the bangle
1. Anneal and file the ends square
Start with annealed metal so it bends evenly. File both ends dead square, and check them against each other: a gap of light at the seam means a weak solder joint.
2. Bend the ends together
Bend the blank into a rough loop by hand or around the mandrel, then bring the ends together so they meet flush, with tension holding them closed. Overlap the ends slightly and spring them back past each other so they press together.
3. Solder the seam
Solder with hard solder, as the bangle will be heated again if you add anything else. Pickle, rinse and file off any excess solder.
4. Round it on a bangle mandrel
Slide the bangle onto a round steel bangle mandrel tapering from 38 to 76 mm and tap it round with a soft mallet such as this 1.75-inch nylon-head mallet, which moves the metal without marking it. Turn the bangle over regularly and work from the other side, because a tapered mandrel makes the edge further up the taper smaller than the edge lower down. Many makers prefer an oval mandrel profile for bangles, as it sits more comfortably on the wrist; our mandrels & sizing collection carries round, oval and shaped bangle formers in steel and wood.
5. Check the size and finish
Measure the inside diameter again and compare it with your target. To enlarge slightly, planish the bangle on the mandrel with a steel hammer, which thins and stretches the metal a little. Then file, sand and finish as you would any piece.
Selling it? Check the hallmarking weight
Solid silver bangles are heavier than most people expect. Under the Hallmarking Act 1973, silver articles weighing 7.78 grams or more must be hallmarked before they can be described as silver when sold in the UK (the thresholds are 1 gram for gold and 0.5 grams for platinum). Most solid silver bangles will be over that weight, so weigh the finished piece and plan for assay before you price it.
Frequently asked
How do I measure for a solid bangle?
Tuck the thumb in towards the little finger, wrap a paper strip or soft tape around the widest part of the hand across the knuckles, and measure the circumference. Divide it by 3.1416 to get the inside diameter the bangle needs, and round up if you fall between sizes.
How long should a bangle blank be?
Use blank length = (inside diameter + metal thickness) × π. For example, a 63.7 mm inside diameter in 2 mm thick metal needs a blank of about 206.4 mm. Allow a little extra for filing the ends square.
Why does my bangle come out a different size on each edge?
A tapered mandrel is smaller towards its narrow end, so the edge of the bangle that sits further up the taper ends up smaller. Turn the bangle over regularly while you shape it so both edges are worked equally.
Does a silver bangle need to be hallmarked?
If you sell it as silver in the UK and it weighs 7.78 grams or more, yes. Below that weight hallmarking is voluntary. Most solid silver bangles are over the threshold, so weigh the finished piece before pricing it.
Related guides
- Round mandrel vs stepped mandrel: which to buy first
- Hallmarking your work at the Birmingham Assay Office
- How to anneal and forge silver at the bench
Measure the hand, cut the blank by formula, and let the mandrel do the rounding. Your first bangle in copper will teach you more than any chart. Free UK delivery from £30, and unused tools can be returned within 30 days.